:🚢 My 12-Day Hurtigruten Coastal Cruise Adventure

Bergen – Kirkenes – Bergen | December 2024

If you're dreaming of exploring the wild beauty of Norway in winter, the Hurtigruten Coastal Voyage is the ultimate way to do it. For 12 unforgettable days, I cruised from Bergen to Kirkenes and back, crossing the Arctic Circle, witnessing the Northern Lights, and discovering charming coastal towns steeped in Viking history. Here’s a day-by-day look at my magical journey through Norway’s winter wonderland.

Day 1 – Bergen

Our adventure began in Bergen, Norway’s historic second city. With its colorful Hanseatic buildings and lively harbor, we explored Bryggen, browsed the bustling fish market, and took in sweeping views from Mount Fløyen via the Fløibanen funicular. Later that afternoon, my friend and I boarded the MS Richard With, met the friendly, multilingual Expedition Team, and settled into our Polar Inside cabin—compact, windowless, but cozy and inviting. As night fell, we sailed out along the Hjeltefjord, following the old Viking route.

Day 2 – Ålesund & Molde

We arrived in Ålesund, renowned for its striking Art Nouveau architecture. After a brisk morning hike up to Fjellstua viewpoint, we returned to the ship and relaxed in the outdoor jacuzzi, watching snowflakes drift through the fjord air. Later, we stopped briefly in Molde, the “City of Roses,” peaceful and serene beneath its winter coat.

Day 3 – Trondheim

Docking in Trondheim, I set out to explore its Viking and medieval heritage. Highlights included the awe-inspiring Nidaros Cathedral, the picturesque Gamle Bybro bridge, and the charming cafés of Bakklandet. A short walk up to Kristiansten Fortress offered panoramic views before we sailed past lighthouses and sleepy fishing villages.

Day 4 – Bodø & Lofoten Arrival

We crossed the Arctic Circle in the early morning and marked the moment with a traditional spoonful of cod liver oil—cold but memorable! In Bodø, we admired local street art and learned about the powerful Saltstraumen maelstrom. That evening, we reached Svolvær in the Lofoten Islands, where we visited the magical Magic Ice Bar—a wonderland of ice sculptures and cocktails, made even better with a cruise card discount.

Day 5 – Tromsø

Known as the “Paris of the North,” Tromsø offered a vibrant Arctic experience. I visited the iconic Arctic Cathedral, explored Polaria, and warmed up with a velvety hot chocolate. As snow began to fall, we sailed north under a blanket of stars.

Day 6 – Honningsvåg & North Cape

In Honningsvåg, I joined an excursion to North Cape, the northernmost point on the European continent. The drive was breathtaking—snowy cliffs, silent landscapes, and herds of reindeer along the way. We learned about Sámi culture and reindeer herding traditions. That evening, as we dined onboard, we saw our first Northern Lights dancing across the sky.

Day 7 – Kirkenes

We woke up in Kirkenes, farther east than Istanbul and St. Petersburg. My friend disembarked here, while I enjoyed a quiet morning stroll through town. Others visited ice hotels, went snowmobiling, or explored the nearby fjords. That evening, as we began the return leg south, the sky once again lit up with auroras—even more vivid than the night before.

Day 8 – Hammerfest

We stopped in Hammerfest, one of the northernmost towns in the world. I joined a short walking tour to the Struve Geodetic Arc and learned more about Arctic life. As we sailed south, we enjoyed glimpses of cliffs, islets, and snowy mountain peaks—all made more magical by the limited daylight of winter.

Day 9 – Lofoten & Trollfjord

Returning to Lofoten, we visited Stokmarknes, home to the Hurtigruten Museum, where a retired ship sits inside a glass structure like a vessel in a bottle. Cruising through the narrow Raftsund strait, our captain navigated into the Trollfjord—a dramatic, narrow waterway framed by towering cliffs. That evening in Svolvær, we admired the silhouette of the Svolvær Goat mountain—and were treated to our third Northern Lights sighting.

Day 10 – Brønnøysund & The Seven Sisters

Crossing the Arctic Circle once more, we passed Torghatten, the mountain with a natural hole, and the majestic Seven Sisters range, steeped in Norse legend. In Brønnøysund, we explored the harbor and visited the 19th-century Brønnøy Church with the Expedition Team. Once a Viking hideout, the town now offers peaceful harbor charm and striking views of the Helgeland coast.

Day 11 – Trondheim & Kristiansund

We returned to Trondheim early in the morning. There had been a midnight church service for New Year, but I didn’t manage to wake up for it! Later, we arrived in Kristiansund, known for producing klippfisk (salted dried cod). Wandering its cobblestone streets and viewpoints was a lovely farewell to Norway’s small-town culture. We made one last stop in Molde, framed by the snow-covered Romsdal Alps.

Day 12 – Bergen

We returned to Bergen in the afternoon, completing our unforgettable journey along Norway’s stunning coastline. Saying goodbye to the ship and crew was bittersweet, but I stepped ashore with a heart full of memories—of fjords and fishing villages, Northern Lights and Arctic stillness, and the quiet magic only a Norwegian winter can offer.

If you're interested in experiencing a Hurtigruten Cruise for yourself, feel free to reach out—I'd be happy to share more details and help you plan your own adventure!